Kebabs, Aromatic Biryani and Much More: A Historic Indian City Secures a Place on the UNESCO Culinary List.
Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.