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When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.